Arhats: China’s Enlightened Gentlemen

Arhats (or Luohan,十八羅漢, in Chinese)

Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple Kunming Yunnan Province
Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple Kunming Yunnan Province

Arhats: China’s Enlightened Gentlemen:If you love visiting Chinese Buddhist temples, as we do, you will probably be familiar with the term Arhat, as colourful paintings and sculptures of these monk-like beings, shown in groups of 16, 18, or even 500, are a common feature of temple halls.

Ancient Long-Eyebrowed Arhat Cangyan Shan Hebei Province
Ancient Long-Eyebrowed Arhat Cangyan Shan Hebei Province

Arhats: China’s Enlightened Gentlemen: who or what exactly are Arhats?

But, who or what exactly are Arhats?  The word Arhat comes from Sanskrit and means ‘one who is worthy’; in Buddhism, that is a person who has gained insight into the true nature of existence and has achieved Nirvana (spiritual enlightenment).  In this way, Arhats, who are usually monks or nuns, manage to free themselves from ignorance, excitability, ambition, and the desire for existence, so that they will not be reborn.

Frightening Arhat Azure Cloud Temple Fragrant Hills Beijing
Frightening Arhat Azure Cloud Temple Fragrant Hills Beijing

Although this definition seems fairly clear, we have to bear in mind that the concept of the Arhat has changed over the centuries, and varies between different schools of Buddhism.

Two Wise and Benign Arhats Azure Cloud Temple Fragrant Hills Beijing
Two Wise and Benign Arhats Azure Cloud Temple Fragrant Hills Beijing

Whereas in the Theravada tradition becoming an Arhat is considered to be the proper goal of a Buddhist, Mahayana Buddhism uses the term for people far advanced along the path of Enlightenment, but who may not have reached full Buddhahood.

Arhats painted during the Ming Dynasty Shanxi Museum Taiyuan
Arhats painted during the Ming Dynasty Shanxi Museum Taiyuan

Moreover, they believe that the Bodhisattva is a higher goal of perfection. Although the ultimate purpose of the Bodhisattva is to achieve enlightenment and become a Buddha, they are willing to postpone their entrance into Nirvana in order to remain in the world and save other beings from suffering.

A Smiling Arhat Azure Cloud Temple Fragrant Hills Beijing
A Smiling Arhat Azure Cloud Temple Fragrant Hills Beijing

This difference of interpretation seems to be one of the fundamental divergences between the Theravada and Mahayana traditions. However, even in Mahayana Buddhism, the accomplishments of Arhats are recognized and celebrated, mainly because they have transcended the mundane world.

Ancient Emaciated Arhat Wutai Shan Shanxi Province
Ancient Emaciated Arhat Wutai Shan Shanxi Province

The Chinese Buddhist tradition and Arhats

In the Chinese Buddhist tradition,  Arhats are usually depicted in groups of 16 and later 18; all with their own names and personalities: Deer Sitting, Happy, Raised Bowl, Raised Pagoda, Meditating, Oversea, Elephant Riding, Laughing Lion, Open Heart, Raised Hand, Thinking, Scratched Ear, Calico Bag, Plantain, Long Eyebrow, Doorman, Taming Dragon and Taming Tiger. Interestingly, the cult of the 18 Arhats only became popular in China, while other Buddhist countries such as Japan continue to revere just 16.

'Surfing' Arhat Wutai Shan Shanxi Province
‘Surfing’ Arhat Wutai Shan Shanxi Province

These 16 or 18 represent the closest disciples of the Buddha who were chosen by him to remain in this world and not to enter nirvana until the coming of the next Buddha, in order to give people something / someone to worship. We can think of them as the Buddhist equivalents of Christian saints, or apostles.

A Smiling Two-Headed Arhat Azure Cloud Temple Fragrant Hills Beijing
A Smiling Two-Headed Arhat Azure Cloud Temple Fragrant Hills Beijing

Leaving aside the tricky question of exactly how holy or perfect the Arhats are, what has always puzzled us is the way they are portrayed: Arhat paintings and sculptures are often sinister, ludicrous, grotesque, or just downright ugly. Of course, from a Western point of view this is extremely shocking, because we associate ugliness with evil and beauty with goodness: just think of the idealized images of Christian saints and angels. And it has taken us a long time to find information to shed some light on this mystery. So, here is what we have come up with.

Vain Arhat  Giuyuan Chan Si Wuhan
Vain Arhat Giuyuan Chan Si Wuhan

The Influence of Guanxiu (貫休 / Guànxiū)

Apparently, the first famous portraits of Arhats were painted by the Chinese monk, painter, poet, and calligrapher Guanxiu (貫休 / Guànxiū) in 891 CE. Guanxiu started his career during the Tang dynasty, in what has often been described as a golden age for literature and the arts.

Guanxiu Arhats Shengyin Temple
Guanxiu Arhats Shengyin Temple

However, the Tang dynasty had been in decline for some time and eventually collapsed in 907, which meant that many artists lost their patrons.

Arhats painted during the Ming Dynasty Shanxi Museum Taiyuan
Arhats painted during the Ming Dynasty Shanxi Museum Taiyuan

For this reason, Guanxiu fled to the city of Chengdu in 901, where something like a miniature Tang court still existed and where Wang Jian, the founding emperor of the Former Shu (one of the Ten Kingdoms formed during the chaotic period between the rules of the Tang and Song dynasties) took him in and gave him the honorific title Great Master of the Chan Moon.

Gossiping Arhats Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple Kunming Yunnan Province
Gossiping Arhats Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple Kunming Yunnan Province

The Legend Of Guanxiu’s painting skills

Legend has it that the Arhats had heard about Guanxiu’s painting skills and appeared to him in a dream and asked him to paint their portraits. In the paintings, the Arhats are portrayed as foreigners with bushy eyebrows, large eyes, hanging cheeks and high noses. Moreover, they look unkempt, shabby and eccentric. By showing them like this, it seems that Guanxiu wanted to emphasize that they were like outsiders, vagabonds and beggars; beings who had left all worldly desires behind.

Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple Kunming Yunnan Province
Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple Kunming Yunnan Province

Following Guanxiu’s example, the Chan painters, as they became known, continued representing Arhats with exaggerated and almost perverse features, accentuating their decrepit, skeletal bodies and bony faces, as well as their advanced age.

Arhat Cangyan Shan Hebei Province
Arhat Cangyan Shan Hebei Province

Although Guanxiu’s portraits remained extremely important in Chinese Buddhist iconography, over time, the Arhats started to look less foreign, though no less eccentric.

Arhats painted during the Ming Dynasty Shanxi Museum Taiyuan
Arhats painted during the Ming Dynasty Shanxi Museum Taiyuan

Art historian Max Loehr on Guanxiu’s Arhats

According to art historian Max Loehr, Guanxiu’s Arhats represent the physical incarnation of the persecution Buddhists suffered in eighth-century China; a persecution that almost wiped out the Buddhist establishment. Their tormented faces make the Arhats look like survivors of death and destruction.

Screaming Arhat Giuyuan Chan Si Wuhan
Screaming Arhat Giuyuan Chan Si Wuhan

However, given that Chinese artists had been painting and sculpting expressive and powerful Arhats for centuries, it seems unlikely that either Guanxiu’s uncommon talent or religious persecution alone can account for the grotesque images that fascinate us so. Cultural differences between East and West must play a part too.

Guanxiu Arhats Shengyin Temple
Guanxiu Arhats Shengyin Temple

In a fascinating blog post dating from 2009, the Argentinian cartoonist and illustrator Enrique (Quique) Alcatena, who apparently finds much of his inspiration in mythology, explains that in Asian cultures the ferocious, wild looks of the Arhats are recognized as a symbol of the superhuman strength of these illuminated beings and their determination to crush darkness and evil.

Warrior Arhat with slightly Mongolian appearance Fragrant Hills Beijing
Warrior Arhat with slightly Mongolian appearance Fragrant Hills Beijing

In fact, the Arhats need to look fearsome if they want to inspire fear in devils and other forces of evil and keep them at bay.

Angry Looking Arhat Giuyuan Chan Si Wuhan
Angry Looking Arhat Giuyuan Chan Si Wuhan

The Destruction of the Shengyin Temple

Guanxiu donated his paintings to the Shengyin Temple in Qiantang (in present day Hangzhou) where they were preserved with great care and ceremonious respect. The Shengyin Temple was destroyed duing the Taiping Rebellion (1850 1864). However, the Qianlong Emperor (Qing Dynasty) , who visted the Shengyin Temple in 1757, was so impressed by the paintings that he managed to have copies made and what exist now are those copies and copies (rubbings) of those copies.

Guanxiu Arhat Shengyin Temple
Guanxiu Arhats Shengyin Temple

Another set of sixteen Arhats is preserved in the Japanese Imperial Household Collection. This collection bears an inscription dated to 894. It states Guanxiu began the set while living in Lanxi, Zhejiang province.

Guanxiu Arhats Shengyin Temple
Guanxiu Arhats Shengyin Temple

Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple: Read about our visit to the amzaing Bamboo temple near Kunming

Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple

The pictures you see here are the prints I bought from the temple when I visited as photography is not allowed.

Visiting Arhat Halls

Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple: I love visiting the Arhat Halls in Chinese temples; halls filled with amazing figures and painted with scenes from the supernatural. Arhats, or 羅漢 Luóhàn in Chinese, are often defined as beings who have gained insight into the true nature of existence and have achieved nirvana.

Arhat Jin ge Temple Wutaishan Shanxi Province
Arhat Jin ge Temple Wutaishan Shanxi Province

Qióngzhú Sì 筇竹寺 Bamboo Temple Kunming: Are these the world’s best Arhats?

The Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple is home to what is probably the most amazing collection of Arhats in the world. And if you are visiting Kunming, looking up the Arhats is a ‘must’!

Arhats or 羅漢 luóhàn
Arhats

Although Arhats line the walls of many Chinese temples, you’ll fine some of the most stunning examples in the 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì, on the outskirts of Kunming, Yunnan Province.

Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì Arhats

The temple’s famous Arhat Hall was built between 1883 and 1890 and includes 500 individual, painted clay Arhat sculptures  bǎi Luōhàn by Li Guangxiu, a folk artist from Sichuan province.

Arhats are usually depicted in groups of 16, or 18 and less frequently in such a large number as 500.

Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple: The Arhats

Among the one-metre tall sculptures, there are Arhats reaching for the Heavens with exaggeratedly long arms and others crossing the seas on stick-like legs; there are pensative, serious Arhats and jolly ones; there are bare-bellied chubby Arhats and others that are sceleton-thin.

Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple: Ticket 1991
Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple: Ticket 1991

When you are in front of the Arhats, staring at their true to life faces, it is inevitable to speculate about who their creator was basing them on, and whether they were real characters who existed in the artist’s lifetime, or just a figment of his imagination. And some imagination that must have been!

Arhats or 羅漢 luóhàn

The Arhats are remarkable for the riot of colours enveloping them; memorable for the individual expressions on their faces and mind-blowing for the bizarre mystical scenes in which they are placed.

In the light of China’s long history, these Arhats are relatively recent creations, yet their lifelike facial expressions, their clothes, the backgrounds and the colours, all take you back to China’s mythical past and conjure up the West’s romantic ideas of all things  exotic and Chinese.

Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì Arhats
Arhats

Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple: the China of my Imagination

Arhats kunming

For me personally, an Arhat Hall represents the China I imagined as a kid, after visiting the Chinese Galleries at in the British Museum, ore reading one of the stories in my book of Chinese Tales.

The universe of the Arhats is the China I imagine when I read such epic stories as Journey to the West 西遊記  Xī Yóu Jì, or Romance of the Three Kingdoms  三国演义 Sānguó Yǎnyì.

Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì Arhats

Of course, this romantic vision of ancient China is a far cry from the reality of the country’s historical past; a tumultuous history of 5000 years full of brutality and oppression, wars and conquests, famine, drought and floods.

Arhats Kunming

This other, much harsher China, is vividly described in much more contemporary novels such as Su Tong‘s Binu and the Great Wall (a love story set against the background of all the hapless labourers conscripted into building the Wall), or Mo Yan‘s Big Breasts and Wide Hips (a sweeping family saga that spans over 30 years of wars, occupation, revolution and political upheaval).

Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì Arhats
Arhats

Qióngzhú Sì Bamboo Temple: a Moment of Peace

Nevertheless, for a few moments when I gaze at the Arhats in front of me, I am transported back to that dreamworld of China’s fantastical past; the China of its great mythical novels.

Old Arhat
Old Arhat

It is clear that the Bamboo Temple’s Arhat Hall is the creation of an artist at the height of his artistic powers; an artist whose unbridled imagination has run wild. And that is why this is our all time favourite Arhat Hall. Don’t miss it if you are in Kunming! Below are the accounts of our two visits to the temple.

Arhats Kunming

February 1991 and August 2010: Two Visits to the Bamboo Temple, 筇竹寺, Qióngzhú Sì

Getting There in 1991

In 1991, you picked up a clapped out overcrowded bus in downdown Kunming and within a few minutes you had already reached the outer limits of the city. After that, the bus slowly trundled past verdant green rice paddies and along pot- holed roads, before eventually ascending through the lush forest to the temple.

Arhat Kunming
Bamboo temple Arhats

Getting There in 2010

Despite China’s modernization, it still takes almost as long to get from downtown Kunming to the Bamboo temple as it did way back in 1991.

Arhat

Today, there are no green fields, just kilometer upon kilometer of monotonous suburbs and snarling traffic that holds up the comfortable modern bus. Only the last two kilometers of the ascent through the forest brought back any memories of our previous trip.

Arhat with long legs Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì Arhats
Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì Arhats

Mayhem in 1991

I remember the mayhem from our visit back in 1991. In those days, Chinese visitors used to come on organised outings with their Danwei (work group). Men and women alike, were dressed uniformly in blue Mao suits.

Arhats Kunming
Arhats Kunming

As soon as they arrived, they would try and fight their way to the front of the hall in order to touch, or throw coins at the Arhats. It was quite a sight watching the hordes clamber over each other to get to the Arhats!

The incredulous, and at the same time resigned expressions, on the faces of the caretaker monks said it all.

Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì Arhats

There also used to be snack stalls and tacky souvenir vendors around the temple. Most of them (if not all) have gone now. The area is actually quite serene, given that this is one of Kunming’s highlights.

Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì Arhats

2010: (Domestic) Tourists Can No Longer Enter the Arhat Hall

As I mentioned before, the situation around the temple ix much more relaxed and organised now. Chinese domestic tourists still come in large groups, but on air-conditioned tourist buses. They are then disgorged from the buses and unleased upon the temple; a few selfies later they return to their waiting vehicles and move on to their next destination.

The Difference Now

However, there is one more important difference: due to their past unruly behaviour, especially throwing coins at the Arhats and patting them on the head for good luck, the monks do not let (Chinese) visitors enter the Arhat Hall anymore. Instead, the sculptures must be contemplated from a safe distance. This may explain why the Bamboo temple is actually far more sedate than it was 30 years ago.

If you are a foreigner travelling on your own or in a small group, chances are that the caretaker monks will turn a blind eye, or even directly invite you into the hall (which is what happened to us), as long as there are no tour groups nearby. Just be discrete about it and remember, no photography allowed! Enjoy!

The Vegetarian Restaurant

veggie food Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì Arhats
Vegetarian Food at Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì

When you have gazed at the Arhats enough, you can have a delicious meal at the vegetarian restaurant, or sip a cold beer in its lovely garden and watch the huge resident tortoises roam around the grass.

veggie food Kunming
Vegetarian Food at Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì

What more could you want?

Not veggie food Kunming
Not for eating Bamboo temple 筇竹寺 Qióngzhú Sì

How does the Qióngzhú Sì compare to other Arhat Halls?

Qióngzhú Postcard and ticket from 1991
Qióngzhú Postcard and ticket from 1991

Not all Arhat Halls are the Same!

In some temples, the Arhats can be simple, almost monotonously similar, and painted in one colour; often gold.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Watching-Arhat-1024x971.jpg

Was the Artist Hallucinating?

However, other Arhat Halls are such an exuberance of colour and fanciful scenes that it makes you wonder what the artists might have been taking when they created them.

Jinge temple Wutaishan
Jinge temple Wutaishan

The Jinge Temple 金阁寺 in Wutaishan is a good example of this.