Longmen Caves 龙门石窟: Luoyang 洛阳市

Longmen Caves龙门石窟

Without the hordes


Longmen Caves 龙门石窟:

If you would like to see one of China’s greatest Buddhist sites without the hordes, then turn up at the Longmen caves – 13 kilometers south of Luoyang – in the late afternoon and you’ll have them almost to yourself.

Longmen Caves 龙门石窟:

Arriving at around 16.30 is a a good option. This will give you about 2 hours to explore the site before you are chased out by guards anxious to go home.

Longmen Caves 龙门石窟:

Take bus number 81 from the train station, or a taxi if you are in a hurry.

Longmen Caves 龙门石窟:

Accommodation: We can’t really recommend anywhere to stay in Luoyang. We spent one night at a 7 Day Inn opposite the train station. The place was cheap, but also a bit of a grimy dump. In 2002, when we first visited Luoyang, there seemed to be far better accommodation options. You are probably better off staying in the city centre.

Longmen Caves 龙门石窟:

 Eating:There are a few decent places to eat around the train station, or you could try the heavily restored old town for traditional snacks.

Longmen Caves 龙门石窟:

Arriving: We arrived in Luoyang from Jincheng 晋城市(Shanxi Province). There is some dramatic scenery on the way as you drop down from the Shanxi plateau to the Yellow river plain.

Longmen Caves 龙门石窟:

Leaving: We took the high speed train to Xian 西安. Next day tickets were easy to get hold of even in August. However, the high speed train station is quite a long distance from the city center and the old railway station. You’ll need to take a bus or a taxi and allow yourself plenty of time.

Dream of Ding village 丁庄梦 A Novel by Yan Lianke阎连科

Dream of Ding village 丁庄梦
A Novel by Yan Lianke阎连科
Published by Corsair and translated by Cindy Carter

Dream of Ding Village 丁庄梦

Setting the Scene

The book is set in Henan province, central China, around the city of Kaifeng, during the early to mid-1990s.

“They dug me up so they could take me to Kaifeng and bury me next to my dead wife. “ (Page 310).

Kaifeng Outside Jiaozi Guan 开封饺子馆

Kaifeng, situated  in China’s Henan province on the banks of the Yellow river, once served as the Song dynasty capital (then known as Bianjing (汴京) and is thought to have been the world’s biggest city between 1013 and 1127. Much of its imperial splendor has been lost to the ravages of war, floods and rebellion, but it still retains one of the few remaining landmarks from that time, the magnificent Iron Pagoda (铁塔), built in 1049.

Iron Pagaoda 开封的铁塔

Another of its treasures is the incredible Qingming Scroll, painted by Song dynasty artist Zhang Zeduan (1085 – 1145), which captures the daily life of people from the epoch at the ancient capital, Bianjing; today’s Kaifeng.

Qing Ming Scroll

Modern day Kaifeng is a pleasant city to visit, with lively night markets, interesting temples and pagodas and the added lure of finding traces of China’s tiny Jewish community. Huge skyscrapers, ubiquitous in most Chinese cities, are conspicuous by their absence: due to the wealth of ancient ruins and relics still buried under the ground, the digging of deep foundations is prohibited.

Kaifeng 开封

Strolling around sleepy Kaifeng, it is hard to believe that the villages and surrounding counties hide a dark secret that very few visitors will see, or even know about. In fact, any attempt by a foreigner to visit these places will immediately arouse the suspicions of local police and the security bureau. What are they hiding? Continue reading “Dream of Ding village 丁庄梦 A Novel by Yan Lianke阎连科”