The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu 甘谷; Daxiang Shan 大像山

The Sakyamuni statue, sculpted at the height of the Silk Road’s importance during the Tang Dynasty, is approached by climbing a temple lined trail on Daxiangshan 大像山

The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

Situated in eastern Gansu 甘肃省 province, Gangu 甘谷 is not one of China’s most attractive towns, in truth it is quite ugly.

The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

However, if you are in Tianshui 天水 visiting Maiji Shan and have a day to spare, the large 23 meter moustached statue of Sakyamuni a few kilometers outside Gangu is well worth visiting and can be easily combined with a trip to the beautiful Water Curtain Caves near Luomen.

The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

The Sakyamuni statue, sculpted at the height of the Silk Road’s importance during the Tang Dynasty, is approached by climbing a temple lined trail on Daxiangshan 大像山.

The Sakyamuni statue, sculpted at the height of the Silk Road’s importance during the Tang Dynasty, is approached by climbing a temple lined trail on Daxiangshan 大像山
The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

While none of the temples are spectacular, they are quiet and peaceful. You and a handful of pilgrims will be the only people on the trail even in the middle of August. The statue itself is quite special.

The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

The colours are vibrant and the decorations surrounding it unique. But what stands out is the blue moustache, something almost unseen in the rest of China. There are some good views towards the rising Loess Plateau as you climb the trail.

The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

Getting there:
You can get to Gangu from Tianshui 天水 by train in just over an hour. The convenient K377 leaves Tianshui station in Beidao 北道 at 8.32 and costs 13 hard seat (buy your ticket the night before, there were plenty of seats available).

Pilgrims and monks at The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

Alternatively you can take one of the frequent buses from Tianshui’s twin town Qincheng 秦城.

miniture staue at The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

I’d recommend combining a visit to Gangu with the Water Curtain Caves (Shuiliandong 水帘洞) near Luomen 洛门 some 60 km away.

miniture statue at The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

Hiring a taxi for the best part of a day from  in front of Gangu  train station costs 200 Yuan after a little bargaining. However, I don’t recommend visiting The Water Curtain Caves until restoration work has finished sometime next year (read the next posting).

The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

One curious feature of the statue is that when you see it close up, the face of the giant Buddha has a contented expression. However, Seen from a distance, he looks quite miserable.

The Giant Moustached Buddha at Ganggu; Daxiang Shan 大像山

The Water Curtain Caves 水帘洞 and Lashao Si 拉稍寺 (August 2009)

There were 2 options; wade up the raging river or try and duck under the rickety looking scaffolding. We chose the latter. The last bars of the scaffolding were too high to step over and too low for me to comfortably duck under. I kept getting my day bag hooked on the rusty bars, rocks and stones fell from the over hanging cliff and the rain was incessant.  I could feel I was going to get a lumbago at any moment and  remembered how the guide book had described the Water Curtain Caves , Lahshao Si and the valley in which they were located as the embodiment of old China; serene and beautiful. At that moment it was a living hell.

More photos

Another gem in Eastern Gansu, the Water Curtain Caves (Shuilian Dong) and Lashao Si 拉稍寺 take a bit of  an effort to reach, especially if you are using public transport, but reward the intrepid with a valley of Taoist temples, rock carvings and paintings, without another tourist in sight. Unfortunately, for the next year, the path up the valley is being rebuilt and building work is everywhere somewhat spoiling the valley’s isolation. The huge carved Buddha and paintings overlooking the valley are under going restoration, but at least the scaffolding is being withdrawn and they can be seen Continue reading “The Water Curtain Caves 水帘洞 and Lashao Si 拉稍寺 (August 2009)”

Gangu 甘谷, Daxiang Shan 大像山 (August 2009)

See new and updated post Click here https://holachina.com/?p=10806

Continue reading “Gangu 甘谷, Daxiang Shan 大像山 (August 2009)”