Weishan Home of the Yi Minority

Update
In 2015 Weishan’s famous 14th Century Gongchen Tower was destroyed in a fire.
See pre-fire photos below

Weishan 巍山

Weishan Home of the Yi Minority
Yi Minority Man near Weishan
Yi Minority Man near Weishan

Weishan; home of the Yi Minority in China’s Yunnan province, on a mid-summer’s afternoon is a sleepy place where nothing much happens.

Card Playing Yi Weishan
Card Playing Yi Weishan

This is small town China

This is small town China, where pipe smoking, card playing men squat on small bamboo stools that spill out onto the pavement and street, and while away their days in the teahouses.

Drying Noddles in Weishan
Drying Noddles in Weishan

Women sit by the roadside, grilling vegetables, or tend to their small shops. Long strings of drying noodles sway in the gentle breeze and baskets of freshly picked boletus, neatly arranged in wicker baskets, wait for buyers.

Drying Noodles Weishan
Drying Noodles Weishan

Local transport is equally divided between the motorized and the equine, with trishaws and horse carts vying for right of way in the narrow streets. The peace is only broken by the antics of the local madman who runs up and down the street, naked apart from something resembling a Polynesian skirt, and provides the principal entertainment of the day.

Continue reading “Weishan Home of the Yi Minority”

Spooky Weibao Shan 巍宝山

Weibao Shan 巍宝山

Yunnan Province

Weibao Shan 巍宝山
Charred Statue

Spooky Weibao Shan 巍宝山 located in the heart of the Yi minority countryside. This facsinating and lonely place is a must for anyone visiting the historic town of Weishan

A spooky grey sky hangs heavily over the summit of Weibao Shan, the air laden with the threat of a summer storm that refuses to burst. We catch a glimpse of a fluorescent green snake, slithering through the eye socket of a charred Taoist deity; victim of a lightning strike that had reduced his temple to a ghostly shell.

Weibao Shan 巍宝山
Burnt Statues on Weibao Shan

Weibao Shan 巍宝山
Lightning struck Statues on Weibao Shan

Down below, deep forests cover the slopes of the mountain and ancient Yi villages pepper the bottom of the valley.  The only other sign of life is a slightly dotty old caretaker and her dozens of cats.

Weishan County
Views From Weibaoshan

Situated about 55 kilometers from Continue reading “Spooky Weibao Shan 巍宝山”

Qiunatong last village before Tibet

Qiunatong 秋那通

Qiunatong last village before Tibet is China at its most spectacular. Magnificent scenery, fierce canines, and laid-back locals await you on your visit to Qiunatong 秋那通, one of the last villages in Yunnan云南 before you enter Tibet西藏.

Beautiful old Church

Barring a few hamlets, Yunnan province virtually ends at Qiunatong. At least all paved roads end here ( this has now changed). If you walk or cycle west of here for a day or so, you’ll find end up in Tibet proper. That is if you don’t stumble upon a Chinese border security post!

Map-of-Bingzhongluo and around

The Village

The Nu village 怒族 of Qiunatong is an attractive collection of large wooden farm houses set amongst Continue reading “Qiunatong last village before Tibet”

Dong Feng Tibetan Village

Dong Feng 东风 (Bingzhongluo 丙中洛-Nujiang Valley怒江谷)

Dong Feng Tibetan Village
Old-Tibetan-Temple

Dong Feng Tibetan Village offers one of the easiest day trips from Bingzhongluo 丙中洛. Head north out of town along the main road and you’ll soon find yourself on a wide dirt tract with a river running below it.

Cathoolic Church Dong Feng Tibetan Village

Continue for a few meters and the path veers sharply left; all of a sudden, Bingzhongluo has disappeared and Dong Feng comes into view.

Snow Mountain Dong Feng Tibetan Village
Snow-Mountain

Dong Feng Tibetan Village: A stunning Walk: So Close yet so far

Unfortunately, distances around here are deceptive. The steepness of the mountain slopes makes everything look closer than it actually is, and the path to Dong Feng is no exception.

Dong Feng Tibetan Village

As you enter the valley, the village looks tantalisingly close, sitting there directly in front of you, a mere stone’s throw away, but alas, on the other side of the river.

Continue reading “Dong Feng Tibetan Village”

Bingzhongluo Gateway to Tibet

Bingzhongluo Gateway to Tibet 丙中洛

 

Bingzhongluo Gateway to Tibet
Bingzhongluo Gateway to Tibet

Bingzhongluo Gateway to Tibet: Arriving

Bingzhongluo Gateway to Tibet is reached by the beautiful road from Gongshan 贡山 (see previous article).  The road ends at the one-street town of Bingzhongluo 丙中洛 (Bingzhongluo has expanded in recent years).

Market day in Bingzhongluo
Market day in Bingzhongluo

It is difficult to find a town in a more remote place in China that is accessible by road on public transport. More than 350 kilometres separate this outpost from Liuku 六库, the town at the mouth of the Nujiang valley 怒江谷, from where there are connections to the rest of Yunnan Province 云南省.

Bingzhongluo Locals
Hanging out in Bingzhongluo

Arrive on a sunny morning, and you will find Bingzhongluo bustling with ethnic minorities shopping for provisions or chatting with friends.

Market with a great view
Market with a great view

Bingzhongluo Gateway to Tibet: The Nujiang River

Take in the town’s dramatic location, set below the magnificent slopes of the snow-capped mountains gleaming in their various shades of radiant green, and above the raging waters of the Nujiang River, seemingly in a frenetic rush to reach Myanmar and empty itself in the Bay of Bengal, and you can easily imagine you’ve arrived in the Shangri-La of James Hilton’s Lost Horizon.

Bingzhongluo Gateway to Tibet
Mountain View From Bingzhongluo

On the other hand, should you arrive in Bingzhongluo late on a rainy, damp and misty evening, make your way past the flooded pot holes, dodge the mangy dogs fighting over scraps strewn across the street from the overturned bins, and you might ask yourself why you’d made the effort to get there.

Young Rubbish Collecters in Bingzhongluo
Young Rubbish Collectors

As always, the truth about Bingzhongluo lies somewhere in the middle. It’s a kilometre long stretch of old wooden shacks, hastily built concrete shops, and China’s trademark white- tile administrative buildings. And yet, Continue reading “Bingzhongluo Gateway to Tibet”