Beijing Coma Mǎ Jiàn A Book Review

Beijing Coma (北京植物人) Mǎ Jiàn (马建) A Book Review


Beijing Coma Mǎ Jiàn A Book Review. This book should come with a health warning: unsuitable for first-time visitors to China, for they may well decide to cancel their trip. Even old-time China-lovers, such as myself, should proceed with caution, as some of the things you’re about to read may put you off going back there forever!

“ ‘They aren’t evil, they’re just products of an evil system.’ ”

Having suffered through some graphic descriptions of the unspeakable suffering, and the cruelties Chinese people inflicted upon each other during the Cultural Revolution; having shuddered at the inhumane way the death penalty is carried out and gasped at its utterly immoral connection to organ transplants, I found I had to keep repeating the words Dai Wei, the protagonist, says to his girlfriend, Tian Yi, as if they were a kind of mantra: “ ‘They aren’t evil, they’re just products of an evil system.’ ” (p. 504).

Synopsis

Dai Wei is in a coma; unable to move a muscle, though aware of his surroundings and with his memory intact. Through his memories, he relives his life, from his early childhood, when his father returns from a 22-year stint in a series of reform-through-labour camps, to the fatal denouement at Tiananmen Square, during which he is shot in the head.  At regular intervals, Dai Wei’s attempts to return to his past are interrupted by his awareness of present events – the visits of his girlfriend or friends, his mother’s comments – or interspersed with clinical observations on the deterioration of his own body, as he is after all a Biologist.

a traumatic first arrest for ‘immoral behaviour’

From his family history, childhood and adolescence, with a traumatic first arrest for ‘immoral behaviour’, we move gradually to his university days, first in Guangzhou and later in Beijing. At university, Dai Wei’s political awareness, a vague feeling of anger and frustration that until then had lain dormant, is shaken when he starts reading his father’s journals from his camp days.

children of parents who suffered greatly during the Cultural Revolution

Over time, he becomes increasingly keen to shake off the ‘stigma’ of being the son of a ‘rightist’ and to make a success of his life in a better society. Dai Wei and his fellow students, all children of parents who suffered greatly during the Cultural Revolution, vaguely imagine this society as a place with freedom of speech and thought, freedom from corruption and oppression and justice for all.

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Big Breasts and Wide Hips 丰乳肥臀

Big Breasts and Wide Hips

丰乳肥臀

Author: Pen name: Mo Yan 莫言.  Real name:  Guǎn Móyè 管谟业

(First published in 1996 in Chinese; 2005 in English)

Big Breasts and Wide Hips 丰乳肥臀 is the second novel I’ve read by Mo Yan, the first being The Garlic Ballads天堂蒜薹之歌”. Both novels are set in Mo Yan’s native Shandong Province, in the village of Gaomi, but any similarities end there. The Garlic Ballads is a depiction of corruption in rural China in the early 1980s, a period when the old certainties of communism fade and unbridled market forces are unleashed.

long journey through the tumultuous history of 20th century China

Big Breasts and Wide Hips is a long journey through the tumultuous history of 20th century China: it’s a saga of endless wars, revolutions and violent political persecutions; a desperate time when bayoneting Japanese soldiers, marauding Communist and Nationalist troops, famine, starvation, murderous family infighting, corruption and a whole cast of vile characters all play their part in wreaking havoc on Gaomi village.

Shanguan Lű

The heroine is Shanguan Lű. From her birth, in the middle of a massacre during the Boxer Rebellion, her life is an incredible story of survival and the irrepressible will to live on, through some of the most desperate situations a human being may have to endure.

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The Hua Shan Rock Paintings / 花山岩画 & 左江风景区

Hua Shan Rock Paintings: From Our Diary 2006

The Hua Shan Rock Paintings
The Hua Shan Rock Paintings

Rock Painting Hua Shan

The Hua Shan Rock Paintings are found in Guangxi Province China home to the Zhuang Minority ethnic group.

Who are the Zhuang?

The Zhuang are China’s largest ethnic minority with about 15 million of them living in Guangxi province alone. In fact, the Zhuang are so numerous in Guangxi that the province is officially known as the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. The provincial capital Nanning, or ‘the Green City’, as it tries to promote itself, is a good place to base yourself for forays into the Zhuang heartlands. 

Zuo Jiang River Scenery
Zuo Jiang River Scenery

In appearance, the Zhuang are almost indistinguishable from the Han Chinese, though some Zhuang sub-groups, such as the black Zhuang, continue to wear their distinctive ethnic clothing. The Zhuang do, however, have their own language, which has been transcribed in a curious Romanised script.

Zuo Jiang River Scenery
Zuo Jiang (Zuo River)

The rock paintings at Hua Shan are not only situated in the Zhuang heartlands, but they also mark the cradle of their civilization, as they are reputed to be at least 2000 years old. Thus, these paintings and other nearby archaeological sites provide evidence that the origins of the Zhuang can be traced back to Continue reading “The Hua Shan Rock Paintings / 花山岩画 & 左江风景区”

Trangu Gompa / Thrangu Gompa / 禅古寺

Trangu Gompa / Thrangu Gompa / 禅古寺 Yushu, qinghai Province

(Latest: Thrangu Gompa was completely destroyed and many monks killed in the Yushu earthquake ) The Monastery has now been rebuilt.

Trangu Gompa / Thrangu Gompa / 禅古寺
Trangu Gompa / Thrangu Gompa / 禅古寺
Trangu Gompa / Thrangu Gompa / 禅古寺
Trangu Gompa / Thrangu Gompa / 禅古寺

Trangu Gompa / Thrangu Gompa / 禅古寺. Just off the main road between Yushu and the airport,on the other side of the river and up the hill, is the Trangu Gompa 禅古寺. The main chapel is a modern building, surrounded by traditionally built monks’ living quarters. The complex might seem rather unremarkable at a fist glance, and a little bit ramshackle.

don’t let first impressions put you off

However, don’t let first impressions put you off: once you are inside the main building, you’ll be dazzled by a feast of vibrant colours and stunning paintings that will bring about a “wow” reaction even from those who may have seen one temple too many. Our local driver was shaking his head in disbelief that he hadn’t known what was inside the main monastery building; “tai piaoliang, tai piaoliang (it’s so beautiful),” he kept repeating.

Trangu Gompa / Thrangu Gompa / 禅古寺artists from Tongren (Repkong)


The monastery employed artists from Tongren (Repkong), the most renowned in the Tibetan world and whose works can be found in Tibetan monasteries as far as Lhasa, to paint the inside of the chapels. Exceptionally, the artists actually travelled to Trangu and painted on site.

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Zhira Gompa no Sky Burials Please! The plane is landing

Zhira Gompa (吉然寺) –Yushu – Qinghai Province.

Zhira Gompa no Sky Burials Please! What’s a Sky Burial?

Zhira Gompa no Sky Burials Please! The plane is landing. Sky burials have been banned at Zhira Gompa due to vultures putting planes at risk.

Zhira Gompa

“Sky burial or ritual dissection was once a common funerary practice in Tibet wherein a human corpse is cut in specific locations and placed on a mountaintop, exposing it to the elements or the mahabhuta and animals – especially to birds of prey. In Tibet the practice is known as jhator (Tibetan: བྱ་གཏོར་; Wylie: bya gtor), which literally means, “giving alms to the birds.”

Zhira Gompa Yushu
The majority of Tibetans adhere to Buddhism, which teaches rebirth. There is no need to preserve the body, as it is now an empty vessel. Birds may eat it, or nature may let it decompose. So the function of the sky burial is simply the disposal of the remains. In much of Tibet the ground is too hard and rocky to dig a grave, and with fuel and timber scarce, a sky burial is often more practical than cremation.” (quote taken from Wiki-pedia)

Path to Sky Burial site
Path to Sky Burial site

The grisly details and other considerations

I’ve never gone out of my way to see a Sky Burial, though I’ve had the opportunity. In Litang, Continue reading “Zhira Gompa no Sky Burials Please! The plane is landing”

China’s Music Scene

China’s Music Scene. The World Music Magazine Songlines has been focusing on Chinese Music in recent issues. Here below is an example of some of the groups and musicians they have recommended.

The first is Hanggai. A Beijing based Mongolian group that plays traditional Mongolian music. Great party and drinking music as you will see from the Videos.

YouTube – INTRODUCING HANGGAI PROMO VIDEO

YouTube – inner mongolian band playing folk music in bar

The second recommendation is Mamer.

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Jingdezhen Porcelain City 景德镇

Jingdezhen: the Porcelain City
Porcelain-Bowls

Jingdezhen: the Porcelain City 景德镇

porcelain traffic lights in Jingdezhen: the Porcelain City
Traffic Light Jingdezhen (not our photo; have lost original source).

Jingdezhen: the Porcelain City 景德镇. Imagine a city where the street lights, traffic lights and just about any other public amenity are made of porcelain: this is Jingdezhen, one of China’s foremost Porcelain Cities!

porcelain speakers in Jingdezhen: the Porcelain City
Our photo

kilns belch black smoke into the sky

Here, crowded street markets flog almost anything imaginable, from plain crockery to huge, tacky vases and life-size Buddha’s, all made of porcelain, while the chimneys of the kilns belch black smoke into the sky.

Jingdezhen Porcelain City 景德镇


Porcelain from the Imperial Kilns is what converted Jingdezhen into a household name in China and worldwide too; at least for those in the know. Production dates back well over a thousand years.

potter at work in Jingdezhen Porcelain City 景德镇
Jingdezhen

the finest pieces

In times past, the finest pieces would be sent to the palaces of China’s emperors and the ruling elite. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Europe discovered the quality of the porcelain produced at Jingdezhen and, as a result, a huge export market sprung up, which only added to the city’s prestige.

potter at work in Jingdezhen Porcelain City 景德镇
Cramped conditions

While location and river transportation may have contributed to Jingdezhen’s growth, it is the reputed quality of the eponymous clay found at Gaoling village, just a few kilometres outside the city that has turned it into the centre of China’s porcelain industry.

 Jingdezhen Porcelain City 景德镇
Porcelain bowls

business is still thriving

Today, the business is still thriving with factories continuing to pump out a haze of dirty smoke. While most of these factories have now been moved to the outskirts, the occasional hidden kiln can still be found in what remains of the dwindling, historic old town.

Jingdezhen Porcelain City 景德镇

Street markets sell the bulk of the cheap and roughly made porcelain goods, while plusher shops deal in the more exquisite pieces. If you are not an expert, the rule of thumb is caution, as there are apparently many fakes that abuse the trade mark ‘made in Jingdezhen’. However, there are plenty of cheap curios that make good souvenirs.

Jingdezhen Porcelain City 景德镇
Huizhou style house

Jingdezhen is well worth a visit

Whether you are interested in buying porcelain products or not, we certainly weren’t, as a backpacking overland trip to Tibet is hardlybusiness is still thriving the ideal way of transporting a fragile vase, a visit to Jingdezhen is well worth it. For one, it offers plenty of opportunities to see porcelain production from beginning to end.

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Shaoxing: City of Wine and Stinky Doufu

Shaoxing绍兴: City of Wine黄酒 and Chou Doufu 臭豆腐 (Stinky Doufu)

Foot Rowers on Shaoxing's East Lake
Foot Rowers on Shaoxing’s East Lake

Shaoxing: City of Wine and Stinky Doufu is a food lovers paradice if you love these two products.

Shaoxing Wine

The smell of the wine hung heavy in the bar and impregnated the old wooden tables, chairs, floor and beams. Old and young took large gulps and slurped the wine from ceramic bowls. Mah-jong blocks crashed on the table, and chopsticks raced with each other to pick up the last piece of stinky tofu. The owner smiled and exposed his blackened teeth as more bowls of wine were ordered and new customers came in, immediately replacing the departing ones. Welcome to Shaoxing and it’s wine.

Shaoxing: City of Wine and Stinky Doufu: The wine

With a tradition that goes back more than two thousand years, Shaoxing wine continues to be a popular drink enjoyed by millions of Chinese. For the uninitiated it is undoubtedly an acquired taste, but it has nothing to do with other Chinese beverages, such as rice wine, which have more in common with rocket fuel than wine as we know it.

In general, the wine produced in Shaoxing is like a medium sherry, resembling the Oloroso wines from the Jerez region of Spain. However, Shaoxing wine, unlike Oloroso, isn’t made from grapes, but from high quality polished glutinous rice and high grade wheat. The water is provided by the clear and pure waters of the nearby Jianhu lake.

Shaoxing wine is popularly known throughout China as Huangjiu 黄酒, or Yellow Wine. There are several different varieties of Shaoxing wine that take on different shades of colour, ranging from the light yellow that gives the original Shaoxing wine its name, to a dark, almost reddish brown variety.

Types of Shaoxing Wine

Of the many types of Shaoxing wine, the Xiangxue (Fragrant Snow) variety is the most highly appreciated. One particular brand of Xiangxue, Ju Yue Longshan, is served at state banquets. Moreover, some Shaoxing wines have become famous outside China. In fact, a Shaoxing wine was awarded a gold medal at a wine and liquor contest held in Madrid in 1985.

When stored over years, Shaoxing wine becomes more fragrant, more appreciated and more expensive. A Shaoxing wine, when it has been  bottled for 30 years, is said to have reached its zenith. Though one type, Huadiao jiu, is sometimes bottled for up to 50 years.

Shaoxing wines can be drunk either cooled or warmed, and tend to have an alcohol content of around 16%. The more expensive types are often served slightly warmed and brought to the table in exotic looking metal wine pewters.

Shaoxing: City of Wine and Stinky Doufu: The Food

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Apart from being a popular drink, Shaoxing wine plays an important part in Chinese Cuisine; it is used in all the cooking schools, and adds a special touch to many dishes. Fish, prawns, seafood and chicken especially benefit from its presence. ‘Drunken prawns’, a dish in which prawns are either marinated or boiled in Shaoxing wine, together with ginger and star anise, is absolutely delicious. Before the ready availability of Chinese products in supermarkets in the West, many Chinese cookery books used to recommend the use of Sherry to replace Shaoxing wine.

Shaoxing: City of Wine and Stinky Doufu: The bars

One of the great pleasures of visiting the attractive city of Shaoxing, is to drop into one of the traditional local bars and try a few of the different types of wine. The cheaper wine is usually sold by the bowlful, although in some places you can also buy the wine in a type of pitcher.

Shaoxing: City of Wine and Stinky DoufuStinky Tofu (Chou Doufu 臭豆腐

Opposite the former residence of the writer Lu Xun, there is an absolutely fantastic old bar where you can merrily drink Shaoxing wine and snack on the Chinese variant of ‘tapas’. The ordering system in this bar is typical of traditional Chinese tea houses and eateries:  you first go to a counter and check out  what they have, the dishes are usually displayed, then you go to another counter and purchase tickets for the dishes you want, and finally return to the food counter, hand over the tickets and take the food to your table. The most popular dish to accompany Shaoxing wine is ‘Chou Dofu 臭豆腐’ which translates as ‘Stinky tofu’.  Smoked duck, fried shrimps and fried chestnuts coated in honey are also popular accompanying dishes.

I have just found this rather nice video about Shaoxing, its wine and smelly tofu, on Youtube. They film it in the same restaurant we describe in our 2001 visit. However, it seems that the place has been somewhat sanitised since we were there.  But it is great to see that the wooden benches and tables are still there.

The Video is in Chinese with English Subtitles. Click below and enjoy it..

For more on what to see and do in Shaoxing Click here

Back to Zhejiang Province

The Garlic Ballads by Mo Yan/莫言

The Garlic Ballads /天堂蒜薹之歌 by Mo Yan莫言 (A Book Review)

Mo Yan/莫言

1988


A close Call

Shit!’, I thought and my heart sank as the Chinese border police picked up the book and looked at it. Having just rigorously gone through all the photos on my digital camera, he was now holding a book that was still banned in China, as far as I knew. In normal times I wouldn’t have cared too much; the book would have been confiscated, the officers would have smiled apologetically, and we would have been allowed to continue… But these were not normal times: it was July 2008 and the Beijing Olympics were still in full swing.  Immigration Officers were under strict orders to give any stray foreigner entering China during that time a real grilling, looking out for undercover journalists, or just anybody who might disturb those perfectly orchestrated Games. We were neither, but we were the only foreigners on the boat from Thailand to Jinghong.

the only foreigners on the boat from Thailand to Jinghong

The young but diligent border guard stared at the book’s black cover: the picture of the garlic bulb seemed to be throbbing and Mo Yan’s name to be glowing. I waited. Was our trip to China about to end right here in the docks of Guanlei, without even setting foot on dry land?

a Hobbesian tale of rural China

The Garlic Ballads is a Hobbesian tale of rural China, where life does indeed seem short, violent and brutal. Set in the 1980s in Northern China, in the aftermath of Deng Xiaoping’s famous statement, ‘Getting Rich is glorious’, the Garlic Ballads highlights the breakdown in the relationship between the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) and the peasants. The latter, still clinging to the ideals of the revolution and age- old Chinese concepts of fair and honest leadership from officials, find themselves cheated, betrayed and even murdered by a new class of CCP leaders who scandalously grab every opportunity available to enrich themselves. Mo Yan spares no niceties in his vilification of this new China and its rulers.

Continue reading “The Garlic Ballads by Mo Yan/莫言”

Dai Temple Art

During the Cultural Revolution, Red Guards descended on Xishuangbanna and wreaked havoc on temples belonging to the Dai minority who believe in Buddhism. In recent years many of those temples have been rebuilt or restored. Many young monks and local artisans have been encouraged to paint new murals on the temple walls. The result has been an explosion of colour and Manga- style imagery. Take a look at the following:

For more on Xishunagbanna go to:

Menghai Market

Xiding Market